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Very interesting interview with Professor Schwarcz on the latest episode of Ipse Dixit podcast: https://shows.acast.com/ipse-dixit/episodes/daniel-schwarcz-on-ai-and-human-legal-reasoning
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Please share your gustatory wisdom with me and other readers. Many thanks.
Muriel's for an excellent mid-high range place in the quarter. I remember loving every single thing they put in front of me.
Commander's Palace if you want to really go all out. Their Sunday jazz brunch is less expensive and lots of fun. Their turtle soup and bread pudding are not to be missed.
Delachaise on St. Charles for a drink and absolutely top notch small plates. This is one my favorite spots in the city.
The nice thing about New Orleans is that people care so much about food that you can go just about anywhere and get a good meal. For fine dining experiences you have the classic old-school places like Arnaud's, Antoine's, Galatoire's and Commander's Palace. I prefer the more new school places like Bayona and Herbsaint where the cuisine is French and Creole influenced but a little more modern. I love Herbsaint. The owner there also runs a more casual upscale Cajun place called Cochon. Another casual place that I like is Stanley which is right on Jackson Square. It is like an upscale soda fountain with sandwiches, burgers, great breakfast and a dairy bar. The owner there owns another fine dining restaurant in the Quarter called Stella. Haven't been there but it is less Creole, more global and supposed to be really good. All of these places are in the Quarter or CBD, except for Commander's Palace which is in the Garden District.
The Palace Café on Canal Street, right around the corner from the Marriott, has a White Chocolate Bread Pudding that is thought by many to be the best dessert in New Orleans.
Here is the list compiled by the Times-Picayune food critic (generally reliable):
Commander's Palace
1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221
Emeril's Delmonico
1300 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.4937
Galatoire's
209 Bourbon St.
Gautreau's
1728 Soniat St., 504.899.7397
Herbsaint
701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114
Lilette
3637 Magazine St., 504.895.1636
MiLa
817 Common St., 504.412.2580
Restaurant August
301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777
Ristorante del Porto
501 E. Boston St., 985.875.1006
Stella!
1032 Chartres St., 504.587.0091
Unlike the past, most are NOT in the French quarter. Commander, Gautreau and Lilette are in Uptown (a short taxi ride from downtown and French quarter). Commander remains the most spectacular as atmosphere. (Ask for the garden room).
I would add in uptown Upperline (1413 Upperline Street, tel. 504) 891-9822), with very good food and a legendary owner, Mme Clevenger, whose son was once chef and philosophy major, and where I used to take most of the philosophers who were reading papers at Tulane. The son-chef will appear after the first course, in apron, and start raising objections to what they said in the paper two hours earlier. Amazed by such versatile students, some very distinguished philosophers asked me whether there were senior openings at Tulane. Those were the optimistic 80's and early 90's.
Some classics are Brennan's, Antoine's, Artaud's, and the Commander's Palace (the last is where Emeril started out). I guess I like Brennan's the best of these, although it is less "fine dining" than the other three. There are lots of small restaurants around Jackson Square that are also excellent. I had a great meal at the Secret Garden Restaurant, for example.
I can't do New Orleans justice here, but I will list just a few places along with some recommended dishes. Keep in mind that "$$$" is much cheaper in New Orleans than other cities.
French Quarter
– Galatoire's – $$$ – jacket required for men at dinner – oysters en brochette, trout amandine, souffle potatoes, lamb chops
– Pelican Club – $$$ – seafood fricasee, bbq shrimp, duck and shrimp gumbo
– Iris – $$$ – veal cheek ravioli, duck confit, sunchoke and cauliflower soup
– Stanley – $$ – diner breakfast and lunch
– Coop's – $ – jambalaya
– Central Grocery – $ – muffalettas
– Mena's Palace – $ – red beans, fried catfish
Downtown
– Luke – $$ – vanilla-scented duck, Luke burger, raw oysters, shrimp farci, matzo ball soup, pate of rabbit and duck livers
– RioMar – $$ – ceviche, zarzuela, mussels with chorizo
– Cochon – $$ – grilled oysters, oyster blt, pork and blackeye pea gumbo, rabbit dumplings
– Restaurant August – $$$ – acorn squash mezzaluna pasta, chicken cooked two ways with smoked paprika, sweet and spicy duckling with grits and foie gras
Uptown
– Commander's Palace – $$$ – turtle soup, gumbo, rack of lamb, bread pudding souffle
– Boucherie – $$ – mussels with collard greens, briscuit, duck confit po-boy
– Casamento's – $ – oysters (fried or raw)
– La Crepe Nanou – $$ – cheese plate, lamb chops, filet mignon
– Parasol's – $ – Poboys (especially roast beef)
Mid-City
– Cafe Minh – $$ – Vietnamese and New Orleans fusion – pork tenderloin with ginger sweet potatoes, summer rolls, bouillabaisse, seafood pasta
And if you can get to the Westbank, some of the best Vietnamese food in the States lurks there. Kim Son and Nine Roses for $$ dining. Tan Dinh, Pho Saigon, and Pho Danh 4 for $ dining. Note that it's not just pho in New Orleans. Lots of things to try at these places (except Pho Danh 4 where they have incredibly good pho). Just make sure to avoid the familiar Chinese items.
Some of these places will be tough without a car. I imagine that everything I mentioned that is not Uptown, on the Westbank, or Mid-City should be easy enough for everyone, even without a car.
Cassemento's on Magazine Street is a great place if you like oysters in many forms. And the place has character. Tile everywhere and it has been there a while. Or at least that is how it was when I was there last. I believe it is still there and I've heard reports back from some folks I've recommended it to that it is still good.
The Royal Street Deli in the French Quarter. If you go and one of the managers is there, say one of the guys from the bus trip recommended you.
Brian,
I really enjoyed Herbsaint (701 Saint Charles Avenue) when I was in New Orleans a few years ago (here). I've read that the service can be a bit spotty at times, but the food was excellent. French inspired southern dishes, if that's something you're interested in.
The best po' boys in New Orleans (and perhaps the world) are found at Crabby Jack's on Jefferson Hwy.
Domilise Sandwich Shop & Bar
Great neighborhood joint in Uptown with real Po'Boys and ice cold beer:
I lived in NOLA for a year on an extreme budget, messing around with the music industry… so this is advice from that perspective.
The best red beans and rice w/ smoked sausage in town is the blue plate special at Betsy's on Canal street (a block or so riverward of Broad). Do not, however, go there on Wednesday, when it's white beans.
Mike L speaks blasphemy, the best po' boys are at Verti Marte, in the quarter but closer to Esplanade than the usual touristey bits, on Royal St. Open pretty late, but, alas, no longer 24 hours like they used to be.
There are several cute coffeeshops in town, I tend to frequent Neutral Ground on Daneel st. in the garden district and Zotz on Oak street likewise. Both are accessible by the St. Charles streetcar.
Also, for god's sake, you're in New Orleans, go listen to some good music. But not the French Quarter garbage, please. The best thing in town is Tuesday night Rebirth at the Maple Leaf, also on Oak, but you probably won't get there in time. If you can find a Kermit Ruffins gig (often off in the 9th ward), it will ordinarily come with excellent barbecue as well as excellent music. And for the best out-there jazz/jazz-funk, the Dragon's Den at the bottom of Esplanade (basically at the corner of Frenchman and the quarter) is often the best option, though sometimes they descend into garbage too.
Lunch – Central Grocery for the muffaletta, Napoleon House for overall good food.
Dinner – Restaurant August (one of John Besh's restaurants) for a truly extraordinary (though expensive) dining experience, NOLA (one of Emeril's places) for good Southern and New Orleans food in a relaxed and fun atmosphere, Dick and Jenny's which is outside the quarter and doesn't take reservations, but is really great and casual (though still upscale food).
Dessert – Creole Creamery for some unique and delicious ice cream or (of course) cafe du monde for beignets and cafe au lait.
Quick lunch by the airport – Acropolis, which is great Greek food in Metairie (suburb of new orleans)
Exploring restaurants of the city was one of my favorite activities while I was there for undergrad.
The best deal in town is the Commander's Palace lunch special — nothing like the price of the evening menu but very much up to the quality. I have only had wonderful experiences at Commander's. (Though I think the 25 cent cocktails are limited to the summer — but the milk punch is worth a try at sunday brunch at any price).
I never had the money or occasion to go to Commander's Palace, but on all accounts it's excellent.
If you want to know what a hamburger is supposed to taste like (+ baked potato), go to Port of Call (838 Esplanade Ave.). Great lunch spot.
For good steaks and overall good dining experience in the Quarter go to Dickie Brennan's Steakhouse (716 Iberville Street, between Bourbon & Royal). This shouldn't be confused with Brennan's (417 Royal Street) which is good for breakfast and lunch.
My family enjoys Delmonico (1700 St. Charles Ave.) but it's far from a NOLA "institution", so if you're inexperienced with food in the city, I'd try some of the more established places already mentioned by others.
I've had some really tasty lunches uptown along Magazine St. (which runs parallel to St. Charles) which is an interesting eclectic area. Unfortunately I can't remember names, but you generally can't go wrong there.
It's odd that I don't know where in the city to get good seafood, gumbo, etc. I always stayed home for that!
You should look over the menu first (at http://www.cochonrestaurant.com), because it doesn't square with everyone's taste (especially if one doesn't like pork), but I would recommend Cochon above any other restaurant in New Orleans. It is where I always take visitors. It is, I think, the best choice because it is A) an excellent restaurant and B) something you won't really get anywhere else.
There are a number of other restaurants I would recommend in N.O. (like Rio Mar, La Boca–the choice if you want a steak–, A Mano, Herbsaint, and August) that are all excellent restaurants but (to varying degrees) not as unique, in terms of food, as Cochon. There are also tons of restaurants that are in some way unique New Orleans institutions–like Arnaud's, Gallatoires, Antoines, etc.–that aren 't really very good restaurants, especially not for the price. In general (though there are standout exceptions, like Bayona) I would stay away from restaurants in the Quarter. If you want to go to one of the more traditional New Orleans restaurants, the best choice, far and away, is Commander's Palace.
Cafe du Monde: http://www.cafedumonde.com/locations.html
Brennan's: http://www.brennansneworleans.com/
For the vegetarians or those who will be dining with them:
Bennachin in the French Quarter (1212 Royal Street) is an African themed restaurant with some excellent vegetarian (vegan, I think) options, though it has meat items as well.
And, while no one goes to New Orleans looking for Indian or Middle Eastern food, vegetarians will do well at Nirvana (4308 Magazine), Mona's Cafe (multiple locations), and Babylon Cafe (Maple St, Uptown).
Also, if you eat cheese the aforementioned Crabby Jack's will make you a muffaletta with no meat if you ask, though they'll probably look at you funny (and they're huge, so only order the half – even then you might want to split it).
I'm very glad to see Zotz and Port of Call mentioned (though sad that Zotz isn't 24 hours these days). I am, however, somewhat surprised no one has mentioned McHardy's. While it might not be in the same price range as Delmonico et al., their fried chicken is worth the stop.
I was born and raised in New Orleans (and am still here, at least for the time being). The best place for "New Orleans food" by far is Jacques-Imos Cafe on Oak (right next to the Maple Leaf Bar). Web: http://www.jacquesimoscafe.com/ . The food is outstanding, portions are quite large, and it is reasonably priced. Another wonderful place is Dick and Jenny's on Tchoupitoulas (as someone else mentioned). Web:
http://dickandjennys.com/ .
Both of these are uptown. You can take the street car to Oak and walk to Jacques-Imos, but you need a car/cab to get to Dick and Jenny's. Both also look like hole-in-the-walls, but do not let that scare you. The food is outstanding and is better than any of the more expensive places down in the Quarter.
If you want more upscale/snooty, you can't go wrong with Commanders. Antoines has seen better days and I wouldn't go to August. We've been there a number of times and have always been disappointed. Another good choice would be Susan Spicer's Bayona in the Quarter.
If you want oysters, you cannot beat the char broiled oysters at the Acme Oyster House (in the Quarter) or at Drago's (inside the downtown Hilton). The original location is in Metairie, but that's a pain to get to without a car.
Chris scooped me: my two favorite reasonably-priced restaurants are Jacques-Imos and Dick and Jenny's. Just a warning: neither takes reservations (unless your group has more than five people), and if you arrive after 6:00 on most nights, you'll be looking at an hour wait or more. I recommend getting there by 5:30: there's no waiting and it gets you some practice for senior citizenry.
Chris also scooped me on the char broiled oysters at Acme. But for great fresh oysters near Jacque-Imos, check out Cooter Browns Tavern (corner of St. Charles and Carrolton, available by street car), where they've also got over 400 different kinds of beer.
PS – a number of people have mentioned oysters and oyster bars: January is the heart of oyster season in Louisiana and there is a good chance any oysters you'd get in restaurants in New Orleans right now will be harvested from public reefs and not privately managed beds – the former of which are by far the tastiest. (On the other hand, the fact that southern Louisiana saw record rainfall in December works against delicious oysters, but seasonally this is the best time of year for them.)
i could eat at mandina's everyday (if i had no concerns about my health and girth)
http://www.mandinasrestaurant.com/
John Besh's signature restaurant, August, located at 301 Tchoupitoulas.
Commander's Palace is great, but you cannot beat Galatoire's.
A decade ago Court of Two Sisters had an amazing brunch buffet and lovely outdoor seating (maybe a bit chilly now, though I was there in early March).
That was part of a week of free food, paid for by the convention I was contributing my labor to as the son of the person in charge. I gained seven pounds in seven days.
Commander's Palace and Galatoire. Both gustatory experiences you will not soon forget.
Commander's Palace and K-Paul
I ate my way through a dozen of the best restaurants this past October and only these two delivered on the day.
I'm bummed that Bayona only got one mention. Ed Song is right to include it (and the rest of his recommendations are spot on), and I can't believe it's not on the Picayunne list. Bayona has justifiably received scads of rewards, including Food and Wine's "Best 25 places to eat in America" fame.
Also, Cochon is right on the cutting edge of the Anthony Bourdainish get-back-to-meat in innovative ways kind of cooking. It's kind of like the place in Montreal of the same name (well really "Au Pied de Cochon" I think) but without fois gras on everything. I think you can get a pig's head there if that's your thing. I haven't eaten there yet, but all the foodies I know (including Bourdain) rave about it, and it's the first place I plan to go next time I'm in the city.
As far as old school New Orleans, Kinsella is absolutely right, EAT AT GALLATOIRE'S. Don't even look at the menu, just go with suggestions from the waiter for appetizers, drinks, main course, sides, and dessert. The waiters at Gallatoire's work there as careers and are known by name by the regulars (who often develop life long relationships with one of them, who they always request). They are incredible pros and take a lot of pleasure in constructing a meal for you if you let them. If you don't want to do that and would rather go with the menu, that's great too.
The neat thing about Gallatoire's is it really fills in food history knowledge. The original brothers brought over a copy of Escoffier from France and initially fiddled with that to suit local needs. But then they've been incredibly conservative about changing things in the succeeding century. So you really get a taste of the past (and it tastes really, really good).
But there's something new about it too. Though nothing is fusion, Gallatoire's was doing the whole all local, all fresh, thing decades before Alice Walker plugged in her first EZ Bake oven.
I've had nearly religious experiences eating Gallatoire's fried oyster appetizer (the one with the bacon on the outside). The perfect squishiness (almost everyone criminally overcooks fried oysters) and explosion of flavor are astounding, as are their lamb and seafood.
And the atmosphere is about as New Orleans as you are going to get. You'll see a big family next to you drunkenly celebrating some right of passage (sixth grade graduation, debutante ball, officiating some Mardi Gras function, etc.) where everybody is just infected with joy and laughter. A few tables over you'll see someone of a lower class than the Mardi Gras ball people, but who saves up money to be able to afford eating this food every couple of months, enjoying it rapturously and also full of joy. In between you'll get every kind of New Orleans character you can imagine. I don't think I ever got Babette's Feast until I ate at Gallatoire's. And finally, Tennessee Williams used to get drunk there every day. It's fun to sit at his table and imbibe a few.
As far as music/bar type stuff. I really like the Spotted Cat in the Fauburg Marigny (on the other side of the Quarter from the Business District). Their specialty is vodka infused with fruit and fun acoustic music with a bluegrass and slight punk rock flavor. Great stuff all around (If I'd enjoyed them a bit less, I might still be a drinker today!) Molly's on Decatur is a legitimate local drinking establishment right in the heart of touristy areas (it's also pretty disgusting). More interesting is the R Bar in the Marigny with the upside down skeleton band playing on the ceiling.
For lodging, check out the Frenchman ( http://www.frenchmenhotel.com/ ). It's cheap and funky, but safe, and in the Marigny. Close enough to the quarter to walk in (cabs are easy if it is too much), but no so loud as a place in the quarter would be.
Also, I hate to say this. But you probably do want to have at least one Lucky Dog while in the city. And for God's sake, please, please, please read "A Confederacy of Dunces" if you haven't already!
Last bit of heresy- I don't get the whole Cafe Du Monde thing. You have to wait in line, it's crowded with tourists, and bad street musicians, and then Beignets are strictly state fair food, little fried pieces of dough with sugar all over them.
Oh yeah, one last thing. All of the state museums in New Orleans are excellent. The Mardi Gras museum in Jackson Square and the Louisiana State Museum in the Cabildo building (I think each museum is on a different side of the Cathedral) are fantastic. The Cabildo actually has Napolean's death mask, and the Mardi Gras museum really explains the sociology and history of Mardi Gras across Louisiana (not just the New Orleans variety). The last time we were there they had an exhibit of "southern primitive" art in the museum over the old mint in the Fauburg. It was just phenomenal. If you go to the Louisiana State Museum on Jackson Square, they will have info about the other five state museums near the quarter and special exhibits.
Finally- Never, never, never pronounce the name of the city "N'awlins." Only tourists do that. Locals pronounce it closer to the French pronunciation, "New Orleeuns" with the stress on "Or."
I hope this helps.
One thing I should have mentioned above, that can help you make a more reasoned decision regarding the suggestions above:
There is a very prominent stripe of New Orleans cooking, made up of a kind of Southern/Soul Food/French fusion, that is generally extremely rich and heavy. This is probably the kind of food that New Orleans is currently most famous for, partly because it is the kind of cooking associated with Paul Prudhomme and Emeril. It can be found at other prominent restaurants (Brightsens and Upperline comes to mind), and is taken to its logical extreme at Jacques-Imos. If you are up for this, you will probably love those restaurants. But if you are not, beware. For example–I have eaten at Jacques-Imo's around a dozen times (it used to be the first place I would take visitors) but eventually had to stop because I always felt sick afterward. One might think that I should have just controlled myself–but that would run so counter to the ethos of the place as to make the visit pointless…
So I am not saying those aren't good restaurants, but rather that you should know what you are in for. One can have an excellent meal without quite the same brick-in-your-stomach feel afterward at Herbsaint, Bayona, or one of John Besh's restaurants. Interestingly, Cochon–despite the type of food–is also easier to leave feeling reasonably well, largely because their emphasis on small plates makes it easier to take in the whole experience without gorging oneself.
Mosca's (http://www.moscasrestaurant.com/) is the best restaurant I've ever eaten at.
There is a lot of great advice in these posts. I especially second the recommendation for Muriel’s (a nouveaux Creole restaurant in the French Quarter near Jackson Square), Port of Call for huge burgers and strong fruity drinks, Cochon for every sort of pork product (they use everything but the "oink"),Commander’s Palace ($$$$$), and the muffalettas at the Central Grocery on Decatur in the Quarter (take one home with you, they taste better the next day).
One of my favorite restaurants, however, is the little known Adolpho’s: an Italian seafood place in the Marigny. It is tiny and they don’t take reservations (and it is cash only). The menu is simple—you choose what kind of fish and what kind of sauce for your pasta—but everything is fabulous. Also, it is very hard to find if you don’t have the address. (It is located above a bar, and there is no sign.) After dinner you can hear some music at the Spotted Cat (divey and eclectic) or Snug Harbor (more expensive jazz place with big name acts).
For po’ boys, most people will tell you to go to Mother’s (in the Central Business District), but I have never been impressed, and there are always long lines. I prefer Johnny’s in the French Quarter. Or if you want a real adventure there is Parasol’s, a dive bar in Uptown with great sandwiches.
For the vegitarians, Nirvana is a pretty good Indian restaurant in Uptown. There is also Bennachin, an African restaurant in the Quarter.
Bon Appetite, and l’aissez les bon temps rouler!
Boucherie is a must, in my book. I'm also a fan of La Petite Grocery (get the Gnocchi!).
Mother's – http://www.mothersrestaurant.net/
But, for something more fancy try John Besh's August.
http://www.restaurantaugust.com/
New Orleans Food & Spirits on the lake front is really good. I must also agree with Chris, Jacques-Imo's is fabulous!
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